How to Build Your First Trad Rack Without Breaking the Bank
The Real Cost of Freedom on Gear
Trad climbing opens the door to endless adventure—but also a big investment. Between cams, nuts, and slings, a full rack can easily hit $1,500 or more.
Here’s the truth: you don’t need a full double rack to start. With a focused approach, you can build a fully functional beginner trad rack for a fraction of the cost.
This guide shows how to choose affordable climbing gear, what to buy first, and where to save smart—so you spend more time climbing and less worrying about money.
1. Start with the Core: Must-Have Trad Gear
Start small. Buy what you’ll actually use on nearly every route.
Rack of cams
Your starter rack should include:
Set of nuts (sizes 4–13): The foundation of any rack. Black Diamond Stoppers, DMM Wallnuts, or Wild Country Rocks are great.
Single set of cams (BD 0.3–3): Fill gaps later as you climb more.
6–8 alpine draws: 60cm slings plus wiregate carabiners to manage rope drag.
A few 120cm slings: For natural anchors or extending protection.
2–3 locking carabiners: For belays, anchors, and master points.
Pro Tip: Coordinate with partners to avoid duplicating gear.
2. Buy Used—But Buy Smart
Used gear is the easiest way to build a budget trad climbing setup, but it comes with rules:
Buy from trusted sources: Local partners, Mountain Project Gear Swap, or REI Re/Supply.
Skip soft goods: Never buy used ropes, harnesses, or slings.
Inspect carefully: Check for visible damage on metal and frayed trigger wires; avoid cams over 10 years old.
Many used cams can be reslung professionally for about $15, giving you years of safe use for half the price.
3. Mix and Match Your Rack
You don’t need a full matching set. Mixing brands—Black Diamond, DMM, Metolius, Wild Country—helps fill size gaps and saves money.
Pro Tip: Cross-reference cam size charts to cover a full range without duplicates. A simple spreadsheet can help you plan purchases strategically.
4. Shop Smart (and Avoid the Money Traps)
It’s easy to waste money on shiny gear that doesn’t actually make you a better climber. When building your beginner trad rack, focus on function over flash.
Skip the Gimmicks: Avoid over-designed carabiners, color-matched sets, and micro-cams you’ll rarely place. These add cost, not capability. A simple, reliable rack does the same job for less.
Don’t Over-Buy: You don’t need doubles of every cam right away. Start with one of each core size and climb—then add pieces based on what you actually use. (Hint: you’ll place #0.75–#1 a lot more than a #3.)
Just Say No: Hexes and tri-cams may be tempting, but skip them for now. You might want them in the future, but don’t waste money starting there.
5. Build Slowly—and Borrow Often
Trad gear lasts for years. You don’t need to buy it all now.
Borrow from partners, split gear for shared racks, or swap redundant sizes. As you climb more, you’ll learn what you actually use and which sizes fit your local rock.
Date tag on climbing gear
6. Where to Save—and Where Not To
Save on:
Passive gear
Used cams (after inspection)
DIY alpine draws
Don’t skimp on:
Rope, harness, helmet
Webbing or anchor slings
Locking carabiners
Safety-critical gear should always be new and high quality.
Skill Beats Shiny Gear
At the end of the day, the best investment isn’t a cam—it’s your experience. Knowing how to place gear well and build clean anchors saves weight, money, and risk.
Start with the essentials, learn to use them effectively, and grow your rack as your climbing evolves.
