Ice Grades Explained: What WI2 to WI6 Really Mean (and How to Progress)

If you’re getting into ice climbing, you’ve probably heard people toss around terms like “It’s just WI2” or “That pillar is solid WI5.” But what do those numbers actually mean? And how do you know when you’re ready to move from WI2 to WI3… or WI4?

This guide breaks down the WI scale in plain English, using real-world examples and the kind of “feel” descriptions you only get from time on the sharp end. By the end, you’ll understand where you fit on the spectrum—and how to progress safely without getting in over your head.

Ice grades at a glance

What Is the WI Scale?

The Water Ice (WI) rating system describes the steepness, continuity, technical difficulty, and protection quality of frozen waterfall routes.
—When climbers talk about ice grades out loud, they don’t usually say “W-I-4.” They just say “Grade 4.”
We write WI4 in text for clarity, but in conversation you’ll hear “Grade 3,” “Grade 4,” etc.

The WI scale isn’t perfect, but it does help you gauge:

• how steep the climbing will be

• how sustained the pitch is

• how pumpy it may feel

• how secure or insecure placements are

• how difficult protection might be

Think of WI ratings as a spectrum of ice climbing difficulty levels, from mellow steps to sustained vertical climbing.

Ice Grades Aren’t Fixed — Conditions Can Make a Route Way Easier or Way Harder

Unlike rock, ice is alive. It changes every day (and sometimes every hour).
That means the number in a guidebook is a starting point, not a promise.

The same WI grade can feel wildly different depending on:

• temperature

• moisture content

• sun exposure

• freeze–thaw cycles

• recent traffic

• whether it’s hooked-out or untouched

• ice type (plastic, brittle, chandeliered, bullet-hard, aerated, “hero ice,” etc.)

A Picked-Out Grade 4 Can Feel Easier Than an Untouched, Brittle Grade 3

If a WI4 has seen a lot of traffic, you might find:

• hooked tool placements

• kicked-in feet

• obvious stances

• cleaned-off surfaces

This can make a WI4 feel surprisingly manageable.

But a fresh, untouched WI3 on a cold morning?
That can feel dramatically harder because:

• placements dinner-plate

• ice is thin or brittle

• nothing is hooked

• screw placements are finicky or poor

• movement requires more precision

• pump builds faster due to insecurity

The takeaway:
The WI grade tells you what the climb can be—not exactly what it will be today.
Experienced climbers read conditions just as much as they read the rating.

WI2–WI6 Breakdown: What Each Grade Really Feels Like

Lower angle- rest wherever- WI2

WI2 — Where we all should start

What WI2 feels like:

• Low-angle, stepped ice

• Lots of rests- you can basically stop anywhere

• Secure placements almost everywhere

• Easy screw stances

Perfect terrain for learning swing placement, footwork, and movement basics.

WI3 — This starts to feel “real”

What WI3 feels like:

• Consistent 60–70° ice

• Some steep bulges

• Occasional funky or variable ice

• Pump starts to show up if you climb too fast

• Screw placement requires more thought

Once WI3 feels controlled, WI4 becomes the next logical step.

WI4 — How Hard Is WI4?

Short answer: harder than people think.

What WI4 feels like:

• Sustained 70–80° ice

• 4-6 body lengths of vertical ice

• Fewer obvious rest stances

• Pump management becomes essential

• Screw placements from less-than-ideal stances

**WI4 is a real jump in physical and mental commitment.

WI5 — Steep, Sustained, and Serious

Steep- Hard- Sustained- WI5

What WI5 feels like:

• Near-vertical the whole pitch

• Technical features (curtains, pillars, chandeliers)

• Precision placements required

• Very limited rests

• Screw placements can feel pumpy or insecure

This is advanced ice climbing.

WI6 — Elite Terrain

WI6 is not “harder WI5”—it’s a category shift.

What WI6 feels like:

• Entire pitch is vertical or even slightly overhanging

• Virtually no rests

• Delicate or complex features

• Requires power, precision, and calm under pump

• Very high consequences for poor decisions

WI6 is a long-term goal, not a natural yearly progression.

How to Progress Safely Through the Ice Grades

1. Build Strong Fundamentals on WI2–WI3

You should be able to:

• place screws efficiently

• swing accurately

• kick precise, controlled feet

• read ice texture

• rest deliberately and often

2. Develop Pump Management Before Steeper Terrain

Practice on WI3:

• slow, smooth movement

• breathing on every move

• resting on stems or high feet

• placing screws without panic

3. Step to WI4 Only When You Can:

• downclimb calmly

• place screws from awkward stances

• stay relaxed on steep ice

• manage brittle or chandeliered texture

4. Treat WI5–WI6 as Long-Term Projects

These grades demand:

• strong aerobic fitness

• technical movement

• refined ice reading

• mental composure

• real mileage (years of experience)

Final Thoughts

The WI scale is a useful tool, but it doesn’t tell the whole story. Ice is ever-changing, and a given route can feel easier or harder depending on conditions, traffic, temperature, and real-time texture.

Strong fundamentals and good decision-making matter far more than chasing bigger numbers.
If you want help building those skills—or want a safe, fun day out on ice at any grade—we are always here to guide you.